2009-02-28

Looking Good from the Waist Up

     I'm often asked the question, "Why doesn't this blouse (or dress) look good on me?" Nine times out of ten the offending garment has the wrong style of neckline for the person in question. Wearing a garment with the wrong neckline can ruin the entire look you are trying to achieve.
 
      Fortunately there are some simple rules that will allow you to make good choices for flattering necklines. The type of neckline you need is based on a number of different factors: face shape, body type, and bust size. But before we get into the rules, let's take a look at the options out there and how to identify the different neckline styles.
 
Different Neckline Styles:
      For our purposes, we've broken down the various neckline styles into three categories: Conservative (Formal), Revealing (Formal), and Casual necklines. They are obviously grouped by common themes. The Conservative (Formal) and Revealing (Formal) are all styles commonly found on formal gowns and fancier dresses, while the Casual necklines are just that, neckline styles commonly found on casual wear. The Conservative and Revealing categories reflect how low these necklines plunge.
 
conservative necklines graphic Conservative (Formal):
      These neckline styles tend to rest high on the chest and very seldom show any cleavage at all. They are generally good choices for women with smaller or more average-sized chests.
 
Bateau: The bateau neckline (or boat neck) is one that closely follows the collarbone. It is a good choice for women who have well proportioned necks and heads, but who wish to present a more conservative appearance. Blouses and dresses with a bateau neck tend to be very blousy and are excellent choices for women who are pear-shaped as the slight widening effect of the neck will help to balance the upper and lower halves of the body, and the dress will usually skim over the problem areas of the lower half.
 
Sabrina: The Sabrina neckline (called thus because the look was favored by the famous American actress, Audrey Hepburn's, character in the movie of the same name) is basically a wide, shallow, curving neckline that drops to within an inch or two of the collarbone, and extends almost to the shoulders on the sides. It makes an excellent look for women with narrow necks and thin faces, because it makes them appear wider. The dresses with this style of neck often are more tailored in the bodice with an A-line or flared skirt, giving a very feminine silhouette.
 
Portrait: The portrait neckline is similar to the Sabrina style neckline, except that it is usually lower-cut, and features a shawl-like addition that drapes around the shoulders. It is a style that is very flattering for a number of women and was often chosen by women as a style to wear when sitting for portraits, hence the name. The low, wide scoop offers a flattering view of the skin on the chest, without revealing the cleavage, and is one of the most feminine and classic looks in women's fashion.
 
Jewel: The jewel neck is a high, close neckline style that closely encircled the base of the neck and covers the tops of the torso to the shoulders. The look is almost always sleeveless and the dresses featuring this style tend to be very tailored and sleek of silhouette. It gets its name from the fact that the neckline style is often selected in order to present a backdrop for showing off a particularly special piece of jewelry. It is not a look recommended for more plump women, as the sleeveless look tends to be unflattering.
 
Revealing (Formal):
      These are the lower-cut styles of neckline - halter, sweetheart, empire, and Queen Anne - and generally display a great deal of a woman's décolletage.
 
Halter: The halter neckline consists of two triangular points of fabric that rise along the chest and join in some fashion at the back of the neck. The width of the points may vary by design, and in fact the halter may consist of one solid triangular panel that is fastened around the neck with a strap of some sort, but generally has two separate extensions with a plummeting opening between to show the cleavage. This is generally a good style for moderately-sized to small-busted women, with toned arms and an evenly proportioned neck and head. Overweight women or women with broad shoulders should avoid this style of neckline because it will only over-emphasize their larger proportions.
 
Sweetheart: This is a flattering style for most every woman. Named for its resemblance to the bottom of the stylized heart graphic, the vertical dip of the sweetheart neckline helps to elongate the face and gives balance to larger proportions. This is by far the most popular style of neckline for wedding gowns and many evening dresses because of its ability to make most every size and shape of woman look her best.
 
Empire: The empire neckline is square and most notable because of its horizontal coverage of the breasts. This neckline displays the most chest area of all the styles we are discussing, and generally dips to a point halfway between the top of the breast and the areolas. It is a good look for average-build to larger-framed women with short necks because it offers a balance and makes the neck appear longer. It isn't recommended as much for small-framed or petite women, because it will draw attention to an area that generally is less endowed for smaller women.
 
Queen Anne: This neckline was popularized by Britain's Queen Anne, and is an excellent choice for women who are small-breasted and narrow of shoulder. The roughly diamond shape opening of the chest area makes the upper torso appear larger and wider by drawing the eyes to the horizontal line along the right and left points. It should be avoided by the broad-shouldered woman for the same reason, which would result in the woman appearing far too wide in the shoulder to be appealing.
 
Casual Necklines:
casual necklines graphic       These are the neckline styles commonly found among the casual wear of the average female. They are the vee-neck, crew neck, turtleneck, scoop neck and cowl neck. All of these styles can be found in varying degrees of lowness, depending on the size of the neck opening.
 
Vee Neck: The Vee Neck is the single-most flattering neckline style there is. It is close in back and on the sides and dips to a shallow point in the front of the neck. The vee neck generally has a bound edge, especially when made from knit or jersey material. Every woman looks good in the vee neck because it emphasizes the oval shape of the face and causes the neck to appear longer. The only consideration to remember is to make certain that you have a proper fit on the garment and you will look great.
 
Crew Neck: The crew neck is called such because it is the style of neckline that was found on crewmen's jerseys. It is close all around the neck and is usually found with a narrow, ribbed edge, especially in knitted fabrics. Crew necks are generally good for all but heavier-set women or those with short necks. Those women with wide necks and faces should use caution when thinking about crew neck garments because it will tend to make them look even wider and the necks will appear shorter.
Turtleneck: This close neckline features an extended collar, reminiscent of a turtle's neck when fully extended from its shell. Women with wide faces should use caution when wearing a turtleneck or look as though their head is even larger than it is. As a rule of thumb, the turtleneck collar should be folded so that it extends no higher than one-or-two inches below the chin. Turtlenecks are especially good for women with narrow shoulders and long necks and faces, as it helps to balance them.
 
Scoop Neck: The scoop neck is characterized by its wide opening and full-curving dip down the chest. It is a good choice for heavier builds and wide faces because it helps to keep the upper torso looking proportionate. It even works for small busted women, as the curved neckline gives an illusion of chest. However, women with long slim necks and narrow faces should avoid scoop necks because it will cause them to appear sticklike and gangly.
 
Cowl Neck: Similar to the turtleneck, this neckline style features a collar of folded fabric, but instead of being close-fitted, the cowl neck's collar is wider and looser. The collar drapes loosely around the neck and is a great choice for women who want a collar but don't look good in turtlenecks (i.e. women with heavier builds, wide faces and shorter, wider necks). The cowl neck is not a good look for small-build or petite women as the width of the collar will only emphasize a horizontal line and make the woman look stumpy.
 
The Rules for Neckline Choice:
      Now that we've discussed the options, it's time to review the rules for choosing a neckline. The areas we will be focusing on are body type, face shape, and bust-size. Each of these elements are important considerations when choosing a neckline style, but may be counter-indicative. The key is to look at the different areas and go with neckline styles that are most recommended.
 
Face Shape:
      The shape of your face is the first consideration for determining your ideal neckline. If your face is oval and well proportioned, you will be able to wear most any style of neckline with equal success. If your face is long and narrow, choose necklines that are wider and more shallow, to draw the eye to the horizontal and make your face appear wider. Conversely, if your face is wider and rounder, a neckline that has a stronger vertical shape will help to balance your overall look.
      The concept here is balance. You want to choose a neckline style to balance your features and help you look more in proportion.
 
Body Type:
slim build graphic full figure graphic       Following along on the theme of balance, you again want to select a neckline that will create balance in your overall appearance.
Women who are average in build should be able to wear most every neckline style with equal ease.
Large-framed women should look for necklines that stress a more vertical line. Vee necks, scoop necks, sweetheart necklines, Queen Anne and empire necklines can all look good. Even portrait necklines can be flattering as long as the neckline dips sufficiently to provide an elongating effect.
Small-framed women should look for necklines that will offer a widening effect. The bateau, Sabrina, portrait, crew neck, vee neck and jewel necklines will help to make the narrower build appear wider.
 
Bust Size:
      For our purposes here, we will be considering breast size as well as shoulder width. Women with moderately-sized bosoms and average shoulder width should be comfortable with any of the listed neckline styles. A woman who has a small bust and narrow shoulders should consider choices like the bateau, Sabrina and portrait necklines, as well as the sweetheart and Queen Anne styles. Broad-shouldered and big-busted women should choose styles like the empire, Queen Anne and lower-cut portrait necklines as well as scoop neck, cowl neck and vee neck style.
      Treat each of these facets of your appearance separately, and look at the suggestions indicated for each and write them down. The neckline styles that appear most often on your list are the ones you should focus on. Just remember that there are variations on each and every style listed that could make a choice not normally recommended more acceptable. If you keep in mind the theme of "balance", you'll find yourself making good decisions.
 
Bonus Tip:
      As a bonus in our discussion of neckline styles, I want to offer you a little extra tip concerning jewelry - namely necklaces. Accessories are important to the overall appearance of your look and many women make the mistake of wearing the wrong jewelry with a certain neckline style. I, personally, have seen countless women wearing pendant necklaces with low cut dresses only to have the jewelry get lost in their cleavage. You wear jewelry because you want to show it off, and if it can't be seen, it's a wasted effort.
      As a handy rule of thumb, use your thumb. Any necklace you wear should hang at least one thumb's length above or one thumb's length below the neckline of your dress or blouse. If you keep this in mind, you'll find you have more people admiring your favorite jewelry instead of trying to figure out where it went.
 
Stacy

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